The Quiet Edge of the Plate: What a Pub's Pickle Jars Actually Tell You
At The Bull in Wargrave, the most revealing part of the menu is not the headline dish but the row of jars behind the pass. We followed one batch of house piccalilli from a late-season glut to a small ramekin at the edge of the plate, and asked whether a condiment can say more about a kitchen than a main course ever will.